Devils Tower

Devils Tower Trip Report (#1583)

  • Signed By: Jim Lynch
  • Date submitted: November 01, 2002
  • Number of People Encountered:

Great trip to the Tower. Weather was near perfect. At this time of year be prepared for temperatures from the mid thirties to the seventies and high winds. Darkness comes quickly at this time of year so headlamps are worth it. I saw several parties finishing in the dark, which would have been much safer with headlamps. This was my third trip to the Tower and I had forgotten how sustained and enjoyable the climbing can be. For visitors from the East Coast the length and consistency of the routes should be underestimated when it comes to gear selection and stamina.

Climbed Durrance, Tad, Soler, El Cracko, Assemblyline and first two pitches of El Matador. All of which I highly recommend but would caution off width neophytes about Tad and enjoying 5.7 off width.

We stayed at the Devil's Tower Lodge. The combination of access to the Tower, hospitality and accommodations are unmatched and are truly like no other place on earth. I strongly recommend it and will be returning.

I have been climbing for over 25 years and have had the opportunity to climb in areas throughout North America. Devils Tower is on the top of my list because of the access, quality of the routes and beauty of the Tower and surroundings.

I have known and climbed with Frank Sanders since he was a park ranger at Devils Tower in 1976. I was very fortunate to share a rope with him on this last trip as a climbing partner and my only regret is that we could only do one climb together due to his guiding obligations. I did however get the chance to observe him closely with his clients before, during and after their sessions and recommend that if you are looking for guide service either as a beginner or as someone looking to improve their technique you consider his services. He is very safe, extremely knowledgeable without being condescending and brings enjoyment to the adventure. I look forward to having my children climb with Frank and obviously trust him with their safety. The other trip log entries substantiate the high quality of the experience that Frank and his team bring to their clients. Check it out and don't be put off by the lack of AMGA certification and the hypothesis that all good guides have AMGA certification and spurious corollary that the lack of the AMGA certification equals an inferior guide. In this case, it is not applicable.

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