|Difficulty:||Major Mountain Expedition|
|Best months for climbing:||Apr, May, Jun|
|Year first climbed:||1979|
|First successful climber(s):||Roy Kligfield, Pete Thexton, John Thackray|
|Nearest major airport:||Delhi|
Thalay Sagar is located just north of Gangotri in the Western Garhwal of India. At 6904 meters, it is one of the most difficult mountains in the Garhwal with no easy ascent route. The first ascent route, the NW Couloir and West Ridge, is a technical ice climb in the lower sections, followed by a mixed free and aid rock section, followed by fifth class climbing up the final summit ridge. It was first climbed by an Anglo-American expedition in 1979.
A number of other routes exist on the mountain which have been completed. The NE buttress (British attempts and Norwegian success), a few routes on the North Face (many attempts, Hungarian, New Zealand and Russian successes), and the South Face (British-American). Attempts on the East ridge and on other faces have also been made.
The success rate on this peak is one of the lowest in the Garhwal.
Thanks to Roy Kligfield for this description.