|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Best months for climbing:||May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep|
|Year first climbed:||1955|
|First successful climber(s):||H. Hubert, A. Koch, H. Schmidt|
|Nearest major airport:||Lima|
Thanks to Guillaume Couture for adding this peak.
East Slope. Classified Easy in David Sharman book. Not a very popular peak but I don't know why. Even in Casa de Guias at Huaraz, guides have few information about it. After the Laguna Paron, climb the small hill on your left. At the top you will find a small meadow and the Base Camp. (3h from Laguna control house). From base camp go back to the trail and walk up until a memorial stone. Then, enter the moraine on your left. (Sand trail go to the Artesonraju glacier's camp). Now, there is billion of cairns. All are good but you save time when follow a almost-direct route to Caraz I. Moraine Camp is 3-4 hours from base camp, near a little lake and waterfalls. You also can climb to the big moraine hill in far-left. It's maybe easier but there is no water. Enter the glacier at the far-left. There is no major difficulty on the glacier.
Thanks to Guillaume Couture for this description.