|Difficulty:||Major Mountain Expedition|
|Best months for climbing:||May, Jun, Oct, Nov|
|Year first climbed:||1977 Japanese|
|First successful climber(s):||On May 29 Nishimura and Yamaguchi got to the top, followed on May 31 by Fukuriki and Nakae and on June 1 by Sasamto and Nomura.|
|Nearest major airport:||Pant nagar|
Thanks to dhruv joshi for adding this peak.
Mt Maiktoli lies on the outer wall of nandadevi sanctuary(long 7952’ latt 3016’ at an elevation 22320 ft. (6803 mts). The approach from the south (the only approach opened) starts from the road head Saung. The peaks lies in this region are Panwali Dwar (6663mts), Baljuri(5922mts) towards the east. Maiktoli’s ridge goes to Devtoli (6788 mts)and then to Mrigthuni (6855 mts) to the northwest direction. Bhanoti (5645 mts) , Tharkot (6099 mts) towards the south of Maiktoli. One can have a glimpse of Trishul (7120 mts), Devi Mukut (6648 mts) & Nandadevi peaks from the summit
Maiktoli in 1977 South Ridge. A Japanese six-man party led by Hitoshi Fukuriki made the first ascent of the south ridge of Maiktoli (22,320feet). From Base camp at 12,500 feet, they started up the southeast spur of the south ridge. Camps I, II, III and IV were established at 14,100, 16,725, 17,400 and 19,850 feet on May 5, 19, 25 and 28 respectively. On May 29 Nishimura and Yamaguchi got to the top, followed on May 31 by Fukuriki and Nakae and on June 1 by Sasamto and Nomura.
Maiktoli in 1990. An Indian team led by Colonel J.C. Joshi ascended the Sundardunga valley and Dungia Dhong and set up Base Camp on the Maiktoli grazing grounds on September 16, 1990. They placed high camps on the 21st and 23rd. Anil Bisht, J.C. Bisht, Anit Sah and one other member gained the summit (6803 meters, 22,320 feet) on September 25, 1990. This was the first Indian ascent by the difficult south face and ridge. They were caught by an avalanche on the descent but escaped unharmed.
Thanks to dhruv joshi for this description.