Mount Higgins East
|Best months for climbing:||Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct|
|Nearest major airport:||Seattle|
Thanks to Stefan Feller for adding this peak.
The three of us headed out for East Higgins at 8:30am from road 1890. Our route has us heading toward the ridge to Round Mtn and near the crest, we headed left to the summit area. We ran into snow at about 3000', we put snowshoes on at ~4000'. When we got our first view of the east ridge, it did not look easy. It was mush steeper than I was led to believe. I thought to myself, what am I getting into! We made it to the base of the peak in 3.5 hours. We put on seat harnesses and proceeded on. I led one 80' pitch of wet mossy rock, snow and brush. I would rate it 5th class. I used the brush as much as possible since snow covered most of the route. I even climb a tree up 6' to step onto a ledge. I finally made it to a good belay spot. I was wondering if the others would club me with their Ice Axes because this was a terrible route. The two others seemed to climb up on top rope without problems. They seemed okay with the route. I was much more upset with the route than they. Of course they did not lead it, I did. We only encounter a 15 foot step rest of the way to the summit which was easy. We summited at 2:25pm. We had wonderful views of Whitehorse and Three Fingers and many other peaks to the East and North. It looks like Whitehorse has so much snow this year that the 60' face is now a walkup a ridge to the summit, no face to climb. The weather was Sunny with some clouds. Very little wind on the summit and I never put on more than one layer.
We left the summit at 3:15pm. We down climbed to the top of the first pitch without problem. For the 15-foot step, we down climbed on belay. We did one 90' repel. I had Randy go first (he is an intermediate level climber). It took him a while to untangle the ropes. I went last and remove brush that could possibly hang up the rope. The ropes did not hang and we were down from the summit on safe ground in 2+ hours. The return went fast and we were back at the car at 7:00pm. I missed the car by 150 yards on the road. I was real happy we were all back safely. Stats: 5 miles, 3700' gain, 10.5 hours, 4/17/99.
Thanks to Stefan Feller for this description.