|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Best months for climbing:||Jun, Jul, Aug|
|Year first climbed:||1859(swiss ascent),1868(italian ascent)|
|First successful climber(s):||Veggiotti 1868(italian route),swiss army officers(swiss route)|
|Nearest major airport:||Milan Malpensa|
|Convenient Center:||Domodossola,San Domenico di Varzo(Italy),Simplon,Simplonpass(Switzerland)|
Monte Leone is the highest peak in Lepontine alps,rising on the border between the Lepontine and the Pennine ranks.The NW side features some ice routes(among which is via della paretina,200 m,3-4hrs from bivacco Farello).The N,NE,E and S sides feature rock routes.The italian normal routes follows the S side and ridge(6hrs.app. from Alpe Veglia,some friable rock).The swiss normal route,which is advisable,follows the w side,the Homattugletscher,reaches Breithornpass and crosses the Alpjergletscher(look out for crevasses),then gets to the top following the south ridge.This is easy but the rock is quite friable.6hrs app. from Simplonhospiz.From the top wonderful view over Weissmies rank,Mischabel,Berner Oberland,Lepontine alps
Thanks to Francesco Musetta for this description.