|Range/Region:||Central Nepal Himalaya|
|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Best months for climbing:||Apr, May, Sep, Oct|
|Year first climbed:||1921|
|First successful climber(s):||George Mallory and other members of the 1921 British Everest reconnaissance expedition|
|Nearest major airport:||Lhasa (Tibet)|
|Convenient Center:||Kharta(?), Tingri|
Thanks to Frank Verwijs for adding this peak.
The British Everest reconnaissance expedition of 1921 wanted to gain insight in the best possible way to reach the summit of Everest. From the summit of Khartse, some miles to the NE of Everest, on the north side of the stunning Kangshung valley, George Mallory concluded, that the East or Kangshung-face of Everest was to dangerous to climb for sensible people. Today it is still considered to be the most dangerous side of Everest, due to the avalanche risks. Mallory was the best known of the team. He died on an Everest attempt in 1924 together with climbingpartner Andrew Ervine. Mallory's remainings weren't found until 1999!. Kartse can be easily climbed, if well aclimatised (you'll have to in Tibet, anyway). The easy routes are from the Kharta Glacier, for instance from the East, the first ascent route. The SW face, from the Kangshung glacier is a lot more dangerous and difficult: a very steep hangingglacier.
Khartse is probably only climbed one time, and the Kharta glacier area was until recently extremely remote. But know there is a new organized Everest-trek that leads over the Khartaglacier, over the Lhakpa-La a very high Col at about 22,500ft/6900m. But this route is not frequented, because of the climbing skills needed at both sides of the Lhakpa-La and the extremely high altitude for a trek. it is a fact that reaching the summit of Kartse is less difficult.
To the North of Kartse rises Khartaphu, a peak over 7200m. To the south lies the Kangshungvaley where 3 of the worlds five highest mountains rise: Everest, Lhotse and Makalu.
Thanks to Frank Verwijs for this description.