Naya Kanga N-E ridge (Normal Route)
- Added By: guido freddi
- Date added: Oct 06, 2010
From Kyanjin walk back the valley about 30' then ford the river (ask locals for Ganja-la pass route). Once on the other side, it should take about a couple of hours to reach a small flat grassy area with some large boulders against which you can repair your tent from cold mountain winds (BC). In winter this is the last place with fresh water, above this place everything is frozen. Next day walk to the ABC by crossing the ridge and scramble the following steep section until reaching a flatter at the tip of which you can put your tent near a pond at about 5000m. We found the pond frozen and had to melt the ice to make water. It's avery cold place, especially in winter. Next day wake up very early, scramble up the moraine until reaching a flat glacier. The glacier is tricherous for its large ad half hidden longitudinal crevasse, make sure you already know how to deal with those monsters. Once you reach the base of a gully, the actual climb begins. Climb up the gully until you reach the NE round and confortable ridge. Enjoy the amazing views until the summit. The NE ridge ends at the summit ridge snow wall. You'll have to climb-up about 5 meters of vertical snow. Once on top of it, if the snow is veeeery stable, you can try to follow it for a few dozen meters to reach the real summit, about 3 meter higher.
Descend to the ABC the same way you came.
NOTE1: Bad weather often comes from South on early afternoon. Try to descend from the summit before that happens.
NOTE: On the way up you can try to skip BC and head directly to the ABC, if you're perfectly acclimatized.