Dufourspitze normal route via higher west ridge
- Added By: Roy Lindman
- Date added: Aug 15, 2011
Take the Glacier Express from Zermatt to Rotenboden.
Starting point can either be the Riffelberg- or Rotenboden train station.
Follow the path towards east and Dufourspitze. It goes at the southside of the Gorner ridge. After two hours descending one will meet the Gorner glacier.
There is usually no snow on the glacier during summer months, so it is relatively easy to go over.
About one more hour and scramble on the Monte Rosa hut terrain.
Now it is wise to sleep overnight. Ascending towards Monte Rosa glacier is best to start around two O'clock in the morning.
The route goes roughly towards east. There are plenty of stones marking the route. After two hours one will meet the Obere Plattje. This glacier section can be described as dangerous, because it is has plenty of cracks.
Afternoon sun usually makes the cracks more wide. From here one starts ascending higher again towards east and through a canyon like a terrain.
Finally after about three hours one starts to see the Nordend mountain properly and a wide terrain opens. One can also see the west ridge belonging to Dufourspitze.
Here one turns towards right and south. When reaching the Oberen Westgrat also the higher west ridge, one starts to go towards east again.
Ascending is now much harder, so called AD climbing. This face like climb requires extra care. One should climb with axes in the middle and not too much on the left side.
On the top starts a ridge climbing period; walking stick is useful.
Finally at the start of the second peak. This climb requires also attention to detail. On the top one can see the top of the Dufourspitze. Some rock climbing and finally on the top !
Descending can be done through the north face which is 150 m high. There are support ropes, but own ropes are good to have with. Going down towards the Obere Plattje is simple descending,
but be aware of the melting conditions, as sun really starts to heat the surface at the afternoon.
Be very careful at the Obere Plattje, the cracks have most possibly increased.
Second night in Monte Rosa hut is often preferred, as the climb is physically demanding.
Very adventourus climb with great views.