Photo by Anthony Wirth
|Range/Region:||Central Nepal Himalaya|
|Difficulty:||Major Mountain Expedition|
|Best months for climbing:||Apr, May, Sep, Oct|
|Year first climbed:||1992|
|First successful climber(s):||Andrej Stremfelj and Marco Prezelj, Slovenia|
|Nearest major airport:||Lhasa(Tibet), Kathmandu(Nepal)|
Thanks to Frank Verwijs for adding this peak.
Menlungtse stands just North of the Nepal-Tibet border and divides the headwalls of the Rolwaling Himal on the South and the Rongxar on the the North. It has two summits: East(7181m, 23559ft) and West(7023m, 23041ft), with 2km's long Ridge between them. Its native name is Jobu Garu or Quageru, but in 1951, when the first westerners, Eric Shipton and Mike Ward, visited the Menlung Valley, it got one more: Menlungtse.
Five jagged ridges stretch out from the summit: North-East, South-East, South, South-West and North-West. On the South side the massif is bordered by the Kongbu Rebusan glacier. The approaches to the mountain are: from Nepal over the Manlung La pass(5510m, 18077ft), yet an easier way is from Tibet by vehicle along the Rongxar valley. in Spring abundant snows force travelers to make a detour or foot over the Fula Shan pass (5411m, 17752ft). The traditional basecamp called "Bapu" is at 4700m, 15400ft) opposite to the other beautiful peak:the slightly lower Gauri Shankar(7134m, 23405ft).
Owing to the winds from the Indian Ocean, the area is warm and wet with a lot of precipitation. Nearly all the attempts at Menlungtse have been made in the springtime, pre-monsoon (April, May)
Despite approaches in 87, 88 (both Chris Bonington) and 1990 (USA) the principal summit was first ascended by a Slovenian party: Andrej Stremfelj and Marco Prezelj, two of the best climbers of Slovenia. The climbed the towering 2000m, 6500ft East wall of the East (main) summit alpine-style from October 22-23, 1992, post-monsoon.
credit: Risk Online
Thanks to Frank Verwijs for this description.