Photo by Even Heinväli
|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Best months for climbing:||Jun, Jul, Aug|
|Year first climbed:||1850|
|First successful climber(s):||L. Arnesen, S. Flotten, S. Sulheim|
|Nearest major airport:||Bergen or Oslo, Norway|
|Convenient Center:||Boverdal or Spiterstulen, Norway|
Situated in the northern part of the Jotunheimen National Park, Galdhøpiggen is the highest mountain in Norway - indeed it is the highest point of Northern Europe. The usual route to the peak starts from Boverdal via a toll road to Juvasshytta close to the Summer Ski Centre. Accommodation is available at Juvasshytta if required. From here, regular guided group tours are run through the summer, ascending the peak via the Styggebreen glacier and an easy ridge of rocks and snow. The ascent is without difficulty but the glacier is crevassed and if not going with the guides the usual precautions must be taken.
Another route ascends from Spiterstulen on the opposite side of the peak, which though a much longer route is again without technical difficulties. It is normal to do this route without a guide in good conditions though the rates for the group tours from Juvasshytta are very reasonable compared with similar length routes in the Alps and are highly recommended.
Completely different in character is the North West Wall, a sheer ice sculpted precipice over 2000 feet high which was only climbed as recently as the 1970's. Here lie the most difficult approaches to the mountain.