Eiger Summit Log (#1882)
- Signed By: Neil
- Date Submitted: September 12, 2003
- Date(s) climbed: 13/7/03
Eiger via mitt ridge; descent via west flank.
Norwand camp site was home for a few days, the owner a descent man, who himself summited the Eiger many years ago!
We did a recce of West Falnk the day before, to gain confidence of the descent.
A train journey to the Eismeer was the start point, then onto the challifern glacier, good conditions prevailed.
Two pitches of climbing followed protected on bolts, then onto the worlds worst traverse!
On the traverse you can bypass a trench like obstacle by seeking higher ground?
Beware underfoot its dangerous!
The new hut is out of this world, and i cant say enough for the people who looked after us.
As for the calibre of guest, no job too big, the hut was oozing with confidence.
The ascent was exellent, quite a bit of fixed rope,
however not all was to be trusted?
A few runners and a small rack will will be ok.
Ascent takes about 5 hours we donned crampons at the summit, around 9am.
Descent via West flank is dangerous ,
partner was hit on the head by rocks 3 times.
Primary descent on hard neve.
Make sure you know your descent route, people have died here.
There are quite a lot of absail stantions, slick drills essential.(small cairns mark the route).
Good weather is definately an asset, bearing in mind, air pressure dropped regular around 5pm the week we were there.
We passed the mushroom, where the day before we were lucky to see base jumpers performing.
Worth noting Eric off Wales was man who set the standard a few moons ago!
If your stuck for time, the last part of the glacier can be overcome glissading, or by ice axe arrest.
We missed the last train by minutes?
Then ended up staying in the haunted room at the local B&B.
The next day we strolled down the mountain, truely a beautiful place!
Watching climbers summiting the next day through a telescope was a bonus.
Mouse and Sarah
Husband and wife team (unguided) 2003
(need any info e-mail no prob)