Breithorn (Simplon)

Description

There are several mountains in Switzerland with the same name Breithorn. The present one is to the east from the Simplon pass (2005 m), located between Hübschhorn and Monte Leone. Breithorn at Simplon (3438 m) is most conveniently climbed from the Simplon pass or from the Monte Leone hut over Homattu glacier and Breithorn pass (3355 m).

From the Simplon pass one starts from the Simplon Hospiz and in the east direction and very close to Hübschhorn. There are no signs in this part at all and finding the way in early hours may be difficult. After passing the north side of Hübschhorn the route goes over huge boulders remaining from glaciers where some marking in green colour exists. The route from the Monte Leone hut leads to this area too. The final part is on the Homattu glacier with the slope of up to 40 degrees; its lower part in the summer time is pure ice and with some snow higher up. There are no visible crevasses in this part. The slope leads to the Breithorn pass from where one may continue to Monte Leone in the north-east direction or to nearby Breithorn peak in the south direction. The snow at the pass and further becomes very soft during a sunny day. One needs around 5-6 hours from the Simplon pass to the Breithorn pass and around half an hour more to reach Breithorn, therefore a very early start from the Simplon pass is required. Crampons are essential.

An alternative is to kamp at high altitude close to Homattu pass or to spend a night in the Monte Leone hut which is quite out of the route but at a high altitude (2848 m).

Thanks to J. Vranjes for this description.