Photo by Kevin Altheim
|Range/Region:||Southwest Basins and Ranges|
|Best months for climbing:||Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep|
|Year first climbed:||1915|
|First successful climber(s):||H.O. Frind, A.H. & E.L. MacCarthy, B. Shultz, M & W.E. Stone, Conrad Kain|
|Nearest major airport:||Cranbrook Airport|
|Convenient Center:||Cranbrook, Golden|
Thanks to Kevin Altheim for adding this peak.
Located S of Mount Maye, NE of Karnak and Jumbo Mountain, and above the SE end of the Lake of the Hanging Glacier. It is a high mountain which is part of the main uplift of the Purcell Mountains. The east side contains the large Commander Glacier and the west aspect is mantled by the Jumbo Glacier and its spectacular icefall. The ridge connecting it to the Lieutenants also has several hanging glaciers on it. There are also three small peaks on the ridge connecting it The Cleaver called the Guardsmen.
Like Mount Farnham and all of the other siginificant high peaks in the uplift it was first ascended by the legendary Conrad Kain and the MacCarthy's along with some others who accompanied them on climbs once in a while. It was Named in 1915 by Winthrop Stone after one of his visits to the area.
Generally the routes are the North Ridge (1915 Aug) H.O. Frind, A.H. & E.L. MacCarthy, B. Shultz, M & W.E. Stone, Conrad Kain, and the South Ridge (1928 July) M.B. Byles, K. Gardiner, W. Feuz.
Thanks to Kevin Altheim for this description.