Iliniza Sur

Description

Iliniza Sur is one of the most beautiful mountains in Ecuador, and is the higher of the two peaks of Iliniza volcano, located just south of Quito.

(from Xavier Vela:)

To climb Iliniza Sur, approach by car from Machachi to Chaupi and finally "La Virgen", the place where you start walking. From "La Virgen" to "Nuevos Horizontes" hut takes about three hours walking. The hut is on the "ensillada" between Iliniza Norte and Iliniza Sur peaks. There are different ways up to the Iliniza Sur summit, all requiring technical rock/ice climbing. The normal route is the easiest one, 30 to 65 degrees ice (depends of the weather and the month of the year). You may need about four hours to the summit.

(from Robin Shackell:)

Iliniza Sur's condition has deteriorated significantly in the last 3-4 years. It now ejects stones and boulders from the melting glacier above, making both the last section of approach and the climb itself a dangerous proposition.

For those attempting it, go in the middle of the night and be off by first light. It should only take 4-5 hours on grade IV- ground. Start point is from the hut at Iliniza. I'd walk round in day light to get a good look at the route.

Thanks to Robin Shackell for this description.