Photo by RC Patial
|Difficulty:||Major Mountain Expedition|
|Best months for climbing:||Jul, Aug, Sep|
|Year first climbed:||1973|
|First successful climber(s):||Indo-Tibetan Border Police expedition|
|Nearest major airport:||Srinagar, India (via Delhi)|
|Convenient Center:||Leh, India|
Sasir Kangri, also spelled Saser Kangri, is a great mountain massif with four high peaks rising from a glacier-clad north-south summit ridge. It is the highest mountain in the final southeastern stretch of the Karakoram, rising just fifty miles north of the city of Leh.
At the time of its first successful ascent in 1973, it was the highest unclimbed peak in India, despite numerous attempts since it was first approached in 1947. Dangerous cornices, avalanches, crevasses, and general inhospitability of Sasir Kangri repeatedly forced the earlier parties off the mountain.
[Note: the Peak Guardian is responsible for the following information.] Sasir Kangri stands in considerable isolation, with a stupendous prominence over its nearest neighboring peaks of over 2300 metres, at the far Eastern end of the Karakoram range, and is the last of its "giant" (over 25,000') peaks; the first ascent in 1973, supra, was made by a Indo-Tibetan team; the ascent of Sasir Kangri II West was accomplished in 1984 by an Indo-Japanese team. Subsequently, however, it was determined that the unclimbed peak of Sasir Kangri II East, at 7513m, is somewhat higher; it is noteworthy that Sasir Kangri II East remains unclimbed, and is, in fact, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the world, after Gangkar Puensum and Zemu Gap Peak)(See Peakware's List of Highest Unclimbed Peaks; Wikipedia; Reference.com/Enclopedia/List of Highest Mountains, and Answers.com, inter alia, for further authority).
Furthermore, mention should be made of the fact that Sasir Kangri and its subsidiary peaks are indisputably inside the Indian "Line of Conrol" established by the 1972 Simla Accord, whereas its next giant Karakoram neighbor, Saltoro Kangri, 7742m, and S. K. North, 7705m, (which is also believed to be unclimbed as of 2006, another of the World's highest unclimbed mountains) are in the highly disputed area between India and Pakistan as a consequence of the "Siachen Glacier War" (still-unresolved) and the "Kargil Conflict" of 1999, by which India gained some substantial measure of de facto control over the Saltoro Group (and, inter alia, the Teram Kangri and Rimo Groups) as a whole; moreover, Indian military climbing teams are reported to have made at least one ascent of Saltoro Kangri itself since then.
Nevertheless, most authorities continue to classify Saltoro Kangri as within Pakistani territory. International climbing groups are nonetheless restricted to military/police joint expeditions, apparently under the aegis of the Indian authorities. This entire Siachen ("Rose") glacier area of the Karakoram remains one of the most highly militarized regions in the climbing world, and in the world at large today.