Photo by Josh Lewis
|Difficulty:||Basic Snow/Ice Climb|
|Best months for climbing:||Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep|
|Year first climbed:||1933|
|First successful climber(s):||Donald Blair, Norval Grigg, Arthur Wilson, Art Winder|
|Nearest major airport:||SeaTac|
Thanks to Tom Breit for adding this peak.
A North Cascades classic, climbed frequently in one day, although two days is more normal, since there is over 6000 feet of elevation gain.
"Eldorado Peak is one of the grand summits in the North Cascades. It is of colossal size and has an individual aloofness above the rivalry of adjacent peaks and ridges; its W flank features a dramatic relief of 6400 ft in 2 mi. from Marble Creek valley. The eye will pick out the glacially sculptured pyramid of Eldorado as far away as the highway at Rockport State Park. Crowned by ice, the peak should have the sobriquet "Queen of the Cascade River." The name Eldorado comes from a mining claim N of Gilbert's cabin." - excerpted from Fred Beckey's "Cascade Alpine Guide."
The primary route to the summit is via the Eldorado Glacier either by Eldorado Creek or Sibley Creek Trail and then follow the East Ridge to the summit. Ice axe and crampons required. First ascent by Donald Blair, Norval Grigg, Arthur Wilson, and Art Winder on 8/27/1933.
Refer to Fred Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide, Volume 2, for a complete list of all the established routes on Eldorado Peak.
Thanks to Tom Breit for this description.