Photo by Anthony Wirth
|Difficulty:||Major Mountain Expedition|
|Best months for climbing:||Apr, Sep, Oct|
|Year first climbed:||1979|
|First successful climber(s):||John Roskelley and Dorje|
|Nearest major airport:||Kathmandu, Nepal|
|Convenient Center:||Kathmandu, Nepal|
Gauri Sankar is the second highest peak of the Rolwaling Himal, behind Melungtse (23,555 ft.). It is sacred to people on both sides of the Tibet-Nepal border, and its name is Sanskrit for the Goddess and her Consort. The earliest attempts to climb Gauri Shankar were in the 1950's and 1960's, and all parties were defeated by blizzards, avalanches, and steep, often overhung, icy faces. The earliest parties came to believe that the endeavor was hopeless, and the summit was still unreached when the mountain was officially closed in 1965. After this, no permission was granted to climb the mountain until 1979, at which point the first attempt, that by an American-Nepalese party, found success.