Glacier Peak

For a great alpine experience and a non-technical climb there is no beating the Glacier Peak's south route. My cousin and I had a great time on our climb last summer. After we left the PCT we did not see another soul until we summited.

We started at the Little Wenatchee Ford and reached the Pacific Crest Trail via Meander Meadows. After hiking several miles north on the PCT we veered right at White Mt and followed an unmarked trail for about a mile east. Great care was needed when we turned up and went over the ridge to reach the base of the White Chuck Glacier. There are a few lakes down in this area and this is where we chose to make camp. The next day we woke with the sun and made our way up the White Chuck and then on to Glacier Peak's south spine. After the White Chuck the route is completely dry and very strenuous. The route gets steeper and steeper the closer you get to Disappointment Peak. The loose rock makes the footing terrible. We chose to veer to the right just before the top of Disappointment Peak and climbed the rest of the way on its eastern flank. From Disappointment Peak the route continues its straight dry assent. Right before the summit you must veer to the left and scramble up a little shoot. The views from the top are incredible! My advice to anyone who climbs this mountain is to bring several roles of film.

From our car at the Little Wenatchee Ford we figured it was about 20 miles to the top. (40 miles round trip) It was a great three day trip.